I bought a TV with a 200x200 VESA pattern. The mount said '200x200 compatible.' Should be simple, right? Nope. I spent a whole Saturday fighting screw lengths and a hollow wall. Here's the deal.
The Screw Length Thing
Your TV comes with little screws in the bag. They might fit, but I'd bet they're too short. My included screws were 12mm, and the back of my TV needed 16mm to catch enough thread. I found out when the TV wobbled after I thought it was secure. Not fun.
You need to know two things: the thread diameter (usually M4, M6, or M8) and the length. My TV used M8. I had to buy M8x16mm from a hardware store because the mount didn't include them. That's the hidden cost.
Measure the depth of the threaded hole in the TV. Then add a few mm for the washer and the bracket. Don't guess. I did, and I paid with a scratched bracket and a wobbly TV.
Studs vs. Hollow Wall
I caught a stud on the left side, but the right side was drywall with no stud anywhere close. I had to use toggle bolts. The mount's included anchors were garbage—plastic things that might hold a picture frame, not a 55-inch TV.
I used metal toggle bolts rated for 75 lbs each. Four of those on the right side, plus two lag bolts into the stud on the left. That thing isn't going anywhere.
If you have hollow wall on one side, skip the included hardware. Go straight to the hardware store. It costs maybe $10 more, but you won't wake up to a TV on the floor.
The 6-Inch Gap Mistake
Here's where I messed up. I mounted the TV too high, about 6 inches above where my eyes naturally hit when sitting on the couch. I read somewhere that eye level is best, but that's if you're sitting upright. I slouch. The TV ended up straining my neck.
I had to unmount everything, patch four holes, and re-seat the bracket lower. Total waste of a Sunday.
Measure your seated eye height, then subtract about half the TV's height. That's where the center of the TV should be. Write it down. Measure twice. Cut once—or in this case, drill once.
What You Gain with a Mount
A wall mount frees up floor space. My old Table Top TV Stand: Why a Low Console Beats Wall-Mounting (and the Mess I Made) made sense until I got a cat that knocked things off it. Now the TV's out of the way, but the soundbar and cables still need a home. I built a small shelf below, but that's another project.
If you're thinking a wall mount is the end of the story, it's not. The mount is just the start. Unless you're running cables in the wall, you'll have wires dangling. That looks worse than a cheap table top.
Who Should Skip the 200x200 Mount
Honestly, if you rent, skip it. Landlords don't love holes. And if your TV sits in a corner where you can't see it straight on, a fixed wall mount is a pain. You might want a tilting mount or just a When Corner Tv Wall Mount: What To Measure Before You Buy Isn't Worth to save yourself the headache.
Also, if you're on a tight budget, remember the mount is like $50, but the hardware and a level and maybe a stud finder (borrow one) add up. And if you screw it up, patching drywall costs time and money.
I'm not saying wall mounting is bad. I'm saying it's not a five-minute job. You need the right screws, the right anchors, and the right positioning. Do that, and it's solid. Miss one, and you'll be drilling extra holes like me.
For a different take, check out Table Top TV Stand: Why a Low Console Beats a Wall Mount for Most Rooms if you're still deciding. And for the actual screw struggle, I Bolt My TV to the Wall with a 4-Way Wall Mount Stand: The Screw hits close to home.